Saer kar duniya ki, ghafil zindagani phir kahan,
Zindagani gar rahi to nau jawani phir kahan
After 3 months of constant cafeteria discussions, breakout area plans, googling all possible places in and around State of Andhra Pradesh, we came close to a decision on Surya Lanka beach to be the destination for a trip for few colleagues and me. I was given the responsibility to find out the accomodation and travel details from AP tourism department kiosk which I vaguely gave some tries but not to much extent. Eventually it was on a Sunday evening that I happened to have a glance at few pictures of a recent trip of my friend Deepak, to Papikondalu. And I knew this is what we want. We had already spilled some cranial beans on the thought of Papikondalu as a destination but it was rejected on the grounds of some criteria (which we assumed) for hiring a boat. I finally got the details of the travel, place and other basic things and presented the same to my colleagues. This was around June 7th, 2010. We finally decided June 18th to be the travel date as we had some work to finish on June 14th. Papi kondalu is derived from 'Papidi Kondalu' or 'Papidi' Hills. In Telugu 'Papidi' means partition. The Papi hill range splits river Godavari and hence the term. Some people refer it to the resemblence of the range to the partition of a typical Indian Woman's hair. To reach Papikondalu from Hyderabad the journey comprises of overnight travel to Rajamundry which is 390 kms from Hyderabad and then a hitch hike to Pattiseema/Polavaram. From there one needs to take a ferry to Papikondalu which is 65 km by water. Our destination was a small bamboo hut conclave in wild and solitude in the Godavari river basin, surrounded by Papi Hills on all sides.
Next week was to be spent doing the due diligence. I got the number for the travel agent from Deepak. It turned out that one of his colleague knew the guy. Since local language can help you get a better deal I asked Venkat, one of our friend and colleague to call the travel agent as he knew the Rajamundry Telugu dialect. We got a decent deal. In no time train tickets were booked, to and from Rajmundry. Once in Rajamundry everything was to be taken care of by the travel agency. All was set for the trip. I also managed to convince two of my friends and house mates, Karan and Varun to join us. The only fear that we had was the weather. Some people including Deepak, suggested that this was not the right time to go. We have also heard that it is one of the hottest place in India during summers. I betted on one single thought, that by June 15th Monsoon will arrive in full strength and that could definitely spell a charm for us. But the fun of travel lies in unpredictibility.
June 18th, 2010, 5:00 pm, we all left office to get our bags and reach Railway station. The final group comprised of 8 people each having his own superpower which was to be revealed in due course. Here are the names Partha Pratim Mandal, Himakiran Singu, Abhijit Das, Swapnil Sahoo, Karan Arora, Varun Sharma, Praveen Agrawal and me. Hyderabad-Vishakhapatnam Special Express leaves at 8:00 pm from Secunderabad Railway station. We all met at Platform No. 3, clicked few photos, and guess what. We got our first omen. It started raining heavily. The splutter on the windows, water oozing out from the windows, cool wind bringing drizzles with it. The night was spent playing bluff and getting some sermon on art of living from Saint Swapnil Sahoo. Rain not only saw us off but accompanied us on the way making the journey more romantic.
Hyderabad-Vishakhapatnam Special Express' scheduled arrival at Rajamundry is at 4:45 am, however due to some delay we reached around 6:00 am. We were welcome by the drizzle and a cloudy weather. After lingering on the thought of freshening up at Railway waiting rooms or booking a lodge, finally a call to the travel agent and then two rooms at a lodge got us ready by 8:00 am. Due to heavy rain the first ferry was to leave around 10:00 am from Polavaram. We got our stuff and boarded the Tata Sumo sent by the travel agent.
On the way we caught the first glimpse of Godavari river. Gigantic in width it appears to stretch to eternity. On both the sides we saw two huge bridges which represent the confluence of technology with nature. Another one hour of ride through country side would take us to Polavaram. We passed through few south indian villages not much different from villages in any other part of India. Houses here mostly have red roofing tiles made of fired clay. I also noticed a church, a mosque, a temple and a petrol bunk.
I believe fuel these days hold a lot importance. Not many Sikhs live in this part of India hence I didnt see any Gurudwara. Two statues of leaders stood at the start of a village. We passed a herd of goats which according to Partha was mutton on move. We also saw tangdi kababs on the move. It was then that great Swapnil Sahoo presented the idea of dividing 360 degrees by 8 to distribute one single buscuit among 8 people. However we survived these deadly thoughts and reached Polavaram. It was a small farm on the shore of Godavari where our cab dropped us. Mostly banana trees and a local fruit called 'Tatimunjulu' grew in this farm. It also had a temple and a waiting shelter. At 10:00 am we boarded Bhagirathi.
Bhagirathi was the name of our boat. We boarded it through a wooden plank extended on to the shore from the port side of the boar. It was a two storeyed cabin cruiser with an air conditioned lower deck. Towards the figurehead in the lower deck was a small cockpit which had a wooden steering wheel, a wireless system, music system and a mic. Further in the middle a long seating section with 3x3 arrangement which stretched towards the stern. Towards the stern there was a kitchen, lavatory, a wash basin and two stair cases one on the starboard side and the other on port side. The stair cases lead to the upper deck which was partially covered only on the top. There were chairs for passengers and towards the figurehead was slightly elevated to form a small stage. We kept our luggage in the lower deck. Our friends requested the crew to hide the forbidden elixir somewhere on the boat as there is some police check on the way.
The boat started from polavaram and the person on the mic welcomed us on board. It turned out that the announcer on the mic is going to entertain us throughout our journey. The only problem was the language. Out of 8 people in our group only Himakiran(we call him Kiran) knew Telugu. He knows 3 other languages, Oriya, Hindi and Bengali. So we turned to Kiran for his linguistic superpower which spelled a doom to poor fellow because from now he was our official unpaid interpretor. From Polavaram it is a 65 km journey to Papi Hills. It had stopped raining though but the weather was still cloudy. We were served breakfast of idli, vada and tea as the boat starting moving. Announcer informed us that after 8 kms we will be out of all mobile phones network coverage areas. I almost shouted with joy. 2 days without cell phone, isnt it great?
As the boat moved the Godavari basin unfolded the panoramic view of nature in front of us. Beautiful wide river, distant hills covered with cloud blankets, tribal villages in the feet of the hills overwhelmed us. Every now and then a fisherman's boat passed us.
An elevated sand platform ran along the middle of the river for a kilometer or so.
The river meanders through the hills in its course. The boat halted twice at temples on the river banks where devotees paid there tributes to Lords. By then we were almost cut off from the modern world. We were in a place where there are no roads, no phones, only modern gadget working were our cameras.
At 1:00 pm we were served lunch. It was local Andhra cuisine comprising of rice, pulses, sambhar, potato curry, friams, fried veg and curd. It tasted good. After lunch the announcer performed some dance and also choregraphed few couples, kids etc. in audience on some catchy Telugu and Hindi numbers. He even had four old men dance, not to mention that they outdid every one. One thing that I like about South Indians is that they are sport. Every single person enjoyed what the announcer was making them do. He even called few of us and we had a ball with him on stage.
It took us about five hours to catch the first glimpse of Papi hills.
The enterance to Papi hills is marked by a distant view of table like hills. One can see a straight horizontal tangent to the top of the hills shrouded in teh clouds. The river meanders into the hills and suddenly one gets surrounded by hills on all sides. The weather was still good. It was cloudy and we were now face to face with beautiful 'Papidi Kondalu'.Another half an hour and we saw the bamboo huts in distance on the face of Kolluru sands. We got down from the boat and stood there for a moment to have look around.
Godavari takes a sharp left turn in front of Bamboo hut conclave where it is joined by another turbulent, more shallow tributary named Sabari. Standing on the sands one can see Godavari traversing its course through hills. On the right is the Sabari and on left is the passage our boat came from. We took few welcome photographs and rested our bags in the huts. It was about 4:00 pm and an attendant informed us that tea and snacks will be served in a while. After some tea and pakoda we decided to do some trekking along Sabari river as it is shallow though turbulent. We played with the river, did some rock jumping and clicked few pictures. I even found a bamboo raft which we tried to float with Karan, Varun and me aboard. But since it could handle only one, Karan and Varun got down. We came back to our huts around 7:00 pm.
A little uphill from the bamboo huts was a small guest house with bamboo roofing. More snacks were served with booze and thereafter dinner. We asked the attendent to lay our beds in the open in front of the hats rather than inside the earth. The campfire could not happen since the logs were wet. We tried all means to make it happen. Partha suggested to burn a hut. I suggested to use some alcohol, but that was declined with strong public upheaval. Kiran, according to many attained the highest level of generosity when he gave away more than a pint to a worker who promised to make the campfire at the any cost if we offered him another pint which he was given, though reluctantly now. Two pints showed their effect. This guy piled wood for next 15 minutes, borrowed the matchbox and didnt come back after that. We lost all hope of having campfire and assumed that he must have fallen asleep with two pints down his throat now. But Partha kept up the mood, suggesting that he would put himself on fire. We were now lying in the lap of the nature below the starry sky, surrounded by hills and rivers on all side, what more does one need. It was a wonderful experience. We were all enchanted. Partha and I vowed not to let others sleep. It was real fun. At around 12:00 am we were having some discussion, suddenly Swapnil got up and started playing football. We all started laughing and rolling on all our beds holding our stomachs. People were talking nonsense, but this is what we were there for. Just fun and relaxation away from the chaos of our lives that we spend in modern , civilized, technologically advanced woods. At around 1:00 pm Abhijit dragged Partha to bed and I also lied down. It was complete dark except for a battery powered fluorscent lamp glowing in distance. We all fell asleep in nature's lap.
It was around 3:30 am, I was dreaming of the beautiful place I was in. Slowly two drops drafted on my cheeks and in seconds I realized that they were for real. I grabbed my pillow and took my bed inside one of the huts. I covered my self with a sheet hoping that this was just a temporary drizzle. Slowly the voices outside started growing louder. Sighs converted into shrieks and suddenly all of us were in the same hut. The downpour had become heavier. I covered my self completely in the sheet but since the huts were not meant to be completely shielded from the top, water started pouring in. Fifteen minutes later suddenly our hut's gate got blocked by something big. Well it was Kiran, covered with mud. It turned out that He and Swapnil have ran uphill to reach the small guest house there. While Swapnil probably went up, Kiran fell down on a slippery ascend. We all had a mighty laugh. Kiran finally gave up the hope of going up and started circling the open space. For sometime none of us knew what to do next. We were stranded in the middle of the night, in a place like that and were now completely wet. Rain started getting heavier and heavier. It seemed that we will have to stay like that till dawn.
Varun had a backup Nokia phone with a torch. When rain grew heavier we all decided that this is not going to end unless we do something. We all got our bags from the huts. I also got my clothes on one hand that I had left to dry in the huts. We started moving towards the guest house. Some of us covered our heads with inverted plastic chairs. Varun showed us the path with whatever light was coming from his phone. Then started our adventure of climbing the hill in one of the most slippery ascend. Half way up, I decided to drop my chair lest I fell down. Out of nowhere somebody started showing some light from the top which guided Varun's way and in turn ours. In next 15 minutes we were up. By now it was clear that we took a path which was not at all a path. After all the adventure we were at the guest house verandah completely wet, water dripping from everywhere at 4:45 pm. We quickly changed to whatever dry was left in our bags. Some of us were lucky enough to get chair to sit, rest kept standing.
At 5:00 am, we witnessed the most beautiful view of our lives till date. Slowly the night started giving away to dawn and amidst the clouds and drizzle we saw the bamboo huts, sand, river, hills, sky all materializing one by one first the silhouettes and then the complete landscape . We were standing in front of God's one-of-the-most beautiful creation. We were all spellbound, bewitched, enchanted. Our ordeal, if it all it was, had born fruit. We just delved into the serenity of the view that enveloped us. I thanked the Almighty for giving us eyes - so that we can see this, feet - so that we could reach here and everything else that some on this earth dont have. Thank you God.
It continued to rain. At around 8:30 am, after having morning tea and snacks. We decided to do some trekking. Kiran decided to stay back, Abhijit and Swapnil said they'll join later. So Partha, Praveen, Karan, Varun and I went down. In distance, I saw a good rock shore. I decided to reach there by trekking the periphery of Godavary. It was a rocky and slippery terrain, but something got into me. I almost ran my way and in no time was sitting on one of the rocks. While Partha gave up at the start only and decided to sit and watch rather, I waited for others to catch up. On the way back we paid a fisherman to take us back on his boat. We requested him to fish for us, which he happily obliged and caught few fish in his net. We did another trip on boat, this time with Partha, while Abhijit and Swapnil have hired another boat. For a second time we went to the Sabari river and had some fun there. At around 1:00 pm we went uphill where the lunch was served. It was rice and curry again with chicken and fish. After lunch we clicked some more photographs and also shot some beautiful videos. Our boat came to pick us up at around 2:30 pm. I slept most of the way back in the lower deck. We reached polavaram at around 6:00 pm. By then all our mobile phones started working again. A little gloom with a lot of new energy spread on all of us. Gloom of leaving such a place and energy that this trip filled us with. Our travel agent has already arranged the pickup to drop us at the Railway station. We had our dinner at a small dhaba at railway station and boarded the CCT-SC express at 10:09 pm to Secunderabad. We got down from the train at Secunderabad at 10:00 am IST(Infinitely Stretchable Time). Still in the mood none of us wanted to leave. We had a quick tea together and left for our respective places.
A trip together to such a place can mean a lot. Better bonding, fresh relationships, new friends, wonderful time to remember, an oppurtunity to thank God, know knew places and new people, new energy and lot more. Papi Kondalu will mean all of this.
Some anecdotes from our friends on the trip :
"Only one biscuit left, eh, yar divide 360 degrees by 8(number of people in our group)"
To me when I had something stuck in my throat, " You should take some water. I dont have it. I was just triggering the thought".
"Train driver!! stop!!"
We had 6 tickets in one coach and 2 in a different. We told our friend that we will try to pursue two passengers in our compartment to exchange seat with you, pat came the reply,
"Or I will try to convince 6 others in my compartment to exchange seats with you guys"
"I am just trying to enlighten the mood"
"Madhapur petrol pump zindabad"
"Main to bas pyar karna janta hu" (Famous SRK dialogue meaning "Loving is the only thing I know")
Travel Plan
Friday :
Secunderabad-Rajamundry - HYD-VSK SPL Express(0748) 2000 HRS-0445HRS
Saturday :
Rajamundry-Polavaram - by Cab (1 hour)
Polavaram-Papikondalu(Kolluru) - by Boat (4 to 5 hours)
Sunday :
Papikondalu(Kolluru)-Polavaram - by Boat (3 to 4 hours)
Polavaram-Rajamundry - by Cab (1 hour)
Rajamundry-Secunderabad - CCT-SC SPL Express (2209 HRS-0800 HRS)
Travel Package - Rajamundry-Polavaram-PapiKondalu-Polavaram-Rajamundry through a travel agency - Rs 1700 per Head(good if you can negotiate more), includes cab travel, boat travel, bamboo huts, breakfast and lunch on boat, evening snacks, dinner, breakfast and lunch at Kollur, evening snacks on return journey on boat.
A H Zaidi